It’s not all pretty palettes and liquid lipsticks in beauty. For Asian skintones, there are often beauty issues that are harder to overcome than for Caucasian skin. So today I’m talking about an aspect that affects so many people, men and women. It’s affected me too; it’s the first thing I see when I go to the mirror to do my makeup, is almost impossible to hide with makeup yet can be addressed so easily in the right hands. I make no apologies for the lack of lots of perfectly-lit, beautifully-shot and over-edited pictures – this is is what it is, as it is. Make sure to read to the end to see my own before-and-after.
…if there’s one area which needs a medically qualified specialist, it has to be this
There’s arguably only one thing worse than feeling tired and that’s looking tired. Even worse; you actually feel fine, but those deep dark hollows under your eyes belie your true state of wellbeing. The unforgiving under-eye and tear trough areas are the guilty party when it comes to making us look tired, drawn, even haggard. In fact, a staggering 90 percent of woman claim the eye area is the part of the face they worry about most when it comes to showing the signs of ageing. More often than not, they are talking about crows-feet, wrinkles and sagging, when in fact, the tear trough hollow can be just as ageing. This delicate under-eye area that conjoins the under eyelid to the cheek, is, ironically, one of the most difficult to treat or conceal. Under eye creams, serums and concealers can only go so far to disguise the hollows, shadows and dark circles, so it’s no surprise there’s been a surge in the ‘quick fix’ treatment for under-eye rejuvenation. But if there’s one area which needs a medically qualified specialist, it has to be this; there’s too much at stake to leave it to chance, with a risk of Tyndall effect, granuloma (localized nodular inflammation) and even blindness to name but a few.
Experts now suspect it’s the different skin thicknesses that converge at and around the eye area that contribute to the problem; the thinner skin around the eye meets the thicker cheek skin, “creating the optical illusion of a hollow, like a hammock” says renowned ophthalmic plastic reconstructive surgeon Dr Sabrina Shah-Desai. Combine that with the often hereditary hyper pigmentation around the eye that is so prevalent in Asian skin and the problem is compounded. “As we get older, the eye areas can age in a number of ways. One of the biggest problems is the tear trough area – the hollow between the eye and the upper cheek, which can deepen creating a tired look” With ageing, the tear trough changes both at a subcutaneous and a deeper level whilst the skin also thins and loses volume. Which is why Dr Shah-Desai has developed the Eye-Boost treatment, a treatment tailor-made to each patient’s needs, using the very lightest of fillers and ultra-precise application. While Dr Shah-Desai’s treatment can’t address pigmentation, the reduction of the hollow shadows plays a big part in making us look younger, fresher and most importantly, less tired.
As women (and men) turn more to natural looking treatments, Eye-Boost is a non-surgical treatment that offers long-term results and even has patients giving up the Botox in favour of this more natural looking solution. Restylane Vital Light, a hyaluronic acid-based skin boosting filler, is injected along the lower eyelid and inner tear trough. Much needed hydration, strengthening of the skin’s structure and added volume all work to plump up the hollows and instantly reduce the appearance of the those dark shadows. The results are instant and, with proper aftercare, may last for a few years. For those that require more tear trough work, (i.e. me), Dr Shah-Desai uses a more traditional filler to plump out the deep tear trough, deep on the bony rim of the eye socket.
Asians are more prone to under-eye pigmentation and photo-ageing and find under eye hollows harder to treat. The eyelid skin is richer in melanin, and it’s not uncommon to see the classic “panda eye” look as skin is more pigmented around the whole eye area. So many factors compound: hereditary factors, sun damage (Asians are notoriously bad at using sun protection), anaemia (very common amongst Asians), and a predisposition to post-inflammatory pigmentation. Proper care of the area is vital; a good Vitamin C product will help to bring back firmness and radiance to the skin, whilst Vitamin A (Retinol) can help with skin turnover and collagen synthesis. And of course, regular use of a good SPF around the eye area will help to minimise pigmentation and sun damage.
As expected, there are some side effects, such as slight swelling, bruising and some visible bumps, but nothing that doesn’t subside within a few days and can easily be covered up with mineral makeup. And the end result? A natural looking rejuvenation of the under eye area without the need for surgery that leaves you looking younger and fresher.
It’s no secret I’m afraid of needles or anything sharp coming near my face, but I decided to try the Eye-Boost as I totally trusted Dr Shah-Desi. Unlike other “aesthetic doctors” she has more than two decades of ‘hands on’ surgical knowledge of the intricate facial anatomy and her beauty aesthetic is the same as mine – to achieve a natural looking rejuvenation, with the emphasis on natural.
Would I recommend Eye-Boost? Absolutely, definitely and without a doubt.
I’m so pleased with the results. When not performed properly, tear trough treatments can leave patients with the unattractive “speed bump” that are so often associated with over zealous application of under-eye rejuvenating fillers. For the Eye Boost treatment, Dr Shah-Desai carefully placed the Restylane Vital Light along my inner tear trough and lower eyelid using a cannula. My skin was so very dehydrated and dry, it literally sucked up this hydrating filler before her very eyes! I then went back a couple of weeks later to have the traditional filler along the lower trough as I had very deep trough lines quite low down into my cheek area. I could have had this second filler at the same time as the Restylane Vital Light , but I was curious to see the effect of just the Eye Boost treatment on its own before going back to have the deep trough filler.
The three photos below show 1) before any treatment, 2) after Eye-Boost and 3) after the deep trough filler. Of course, in all photos I’m not wearing any makeup under the eye area, so you can really see the difference it’s made. Of course, there was some initial bruising and swelling, but that had almost disappeared after about a week. The treatment will last around 18 months (but can last up to three years) after which I’ll probably need a top-up. Of course, I’ve had checkups since the treatment was performed as Dr Shah-Desai’s patient care is literally second-to-none.
Would I recommend Eye-Boost? Absolutely, definitely and without a doubt. If this is an area of your face that concerns you and like me, is the first thing you see in the mirror, it’s so worth it. My face looks fresher, less tired and more alert. I’m less paranoid about using correctors and concealers and I’m quite happy to go out of the house without it on off-duty days… Now that’s something I never ever thought I would be able to say.
For more information on Eye-Boost and to book in to see Dr Sabrina Shah-Desai: